
Sardar Charan Singh appeared downcast when we boarded his e Rickshaw from the hotel where we stayed. E-Rickshaw No. 66 had not seen many tourists this season. As a senior birding guide with four decades of experience, Charan Singh, the authorised rickshaw driver, is more than just a driver. He shares insights about the woolly-necked stork, shovellers, Garganey, comb ducks, and the collared scops owl. While these uncommon bird species may not be so important to normal tourists, seasoned birders often seek out such unique names while chatting with the rickshaw drivers. To successfully capture images of birds like the Garganey, Gadwall, Red-crested Pochard, Comb Duck, Black Bittern, or Nightjar, birdwatchers often rely on the expertise of guides. Sardar knows exactly where the Nightjars are likely to be perched, ensuring that his customers leave delighted. However, Charan Singh was feeling dissatisfied this time. Due to the El Niño effect, the weather was unusually hot, even for November. Typically, this time of year would attract many migratory birds to Bharatpur. But Charan Singh is determined to show some special birds to the bird lovers. So, even before the birders get disappointed, he seeks permission to go to a nearby area, about a KM away from the national park. Though initially it appeared a typical guide mindset to market something, a drive with him was not disappointing. The birds seemed to have taken a new abode, it looked like. We had a glimpse of all three species of Cormorants, Spoonbills, Openbills and night herons besides the usual egrets, jacanas, coots and moorhens. Thousands of water birds congregated here for hatching and breeding. It appears that the Rajasthan Govt had decided to convert this place into a heronry. At least this is what a rusted board indicated. When we returned to the Sanctuary and started moving inside, we were a little bit disappointed as there were not many water birds except Painted Storks in thousands. Charan Singh said that the breeding of Painted storks was delayed this year. Some common birds were also missing. Saurus crane was not seen anywhere. We were looking for migrants but were disappointed. Initially, we thought of making two rounds, one in the morning and another in the evening. But, realising that migrants were missing, we packed up and wanted to return. But Charan Singh took us around on unknown routes, trying to help us spot a few uncommon birds. Of course, it helped us to spot a Jackal and a spotted deer. But that is not what we looked for. Though the local guides still pin hope on the arrival of migratory ducks by November end, the fact of delay in migration clearly indicates that the El Niño situation may be intensified into climate change. In old books, there is evidence for counting 500- 600 species; the present-day guides estimate 300 to 400 species during the migratory season. The global hotspot, Keoladeo National Park, which looks deserted and dry, does not appear to have any hope for tomorrow. However, we could record 82 species of birds in 4 hours
